We had lunch near the hotel and then took the bus to Varna. We were meeting about 25 other volunteers for a 2-hour ride on a pirate ship on the Black Sea. It was a nice introduction to Bulgaria for Ryan. Highlights were being on the water and climbing up to the crows nest - I couldn't go the whole way - the last step was really high and I was feeling too short. But I did get a nice birds eye view from the top of the net ladder!
Afterwards we only had energy for finding the bus back to the hotel and dinner - then it was time to rest! After a leisurely morning we gathered our things and headed out to the bus station where we could get a mini-van to Burgas - about 2 1/2 hours south of Varna - also on the coast. Anyone who lives in a touristy area or travels a lot knows to beware of "deals" offered by some of the local entrepreneurs. For example - we took a taxi from the hotel to the bus station because it was easier than taking our luggage on a public bus. On the way the taxi driver offered to drive us to Burgas for only 100 leva. He said it was only a little more the bus and we would get there sooner. Yes, to getting there sooner, but the bus was only 15 leva each.
In Burgas we dropped our luggage off and began exploring. I think I like parts of Burgas more than the parts of Varna I saw. The beach stretches for a long way without lots of resort hotels and there is a wonderful park on the bluff overlooking the beach with lots of shade and paths to walk on. It also has a very long pedestrian mall for walking, people watching and eating.
The next morning - Sunday - we hopped on another bus to a smaller touristy village called SoZOpol - a village with a Greek fishing heritage. Lots of walking, photos and exploring. Bulgaria (and Europe) is so visually interesting - the history, architectural blends of old and new, and people with blended heritages. We visited a museum and soaked in all the interesting views. Then the 30-min. ride back to Burgas. We walked all the way to the end of the pedestrian mall before making the mistake of eating a "dooner" for dinner. It's like a Gyros - meat sliced off a turning vertical skewer and wrapped in a pita-style bread with french fries and sauces. I picked out the french fries - there was enough grease without them. It was a long, hot day; lots of walking; lots of eating; and this was a little heavy as a final meal for the day. Ryan did fine - but I was throwing up in the wee morning hours (maybe some raw meat?). I was a wreck the next day which was our travel day back to my village.
It always makes me appreciate how rarely I feel this bad and am grateful for being healthy. The day started at 6:00 - I bought some yogurt to calm my stomach and we headed to the train to begin our 10 hours of traveling. It all went well (except for the yogurt - throwing up again in the grass at the train station). We hopped on and off 3 trains - catching a little sleep during the rides (with heads bobbing of course). I was VERY happy to arrive home and sleep in my own bed.
Monday was a rest day and we had a leisurely walk along the river. It was also time to introduce Ryan to my friends and colleagues in the village. We were given lots of tomatoes and cucumbers for our salads - so many gifts from gardens. Love 'em - they are soooo tasty. It was good to have a quieter day. We went for a second walk in the evening and were invited na gosti (visitng) with Snezha and Peter. It was a really nice visit and I couldn't believe it was 11:00pm when we left!
Tuesday morning we took the 8:00 bus to the village where I go every Tuesday. Ryan met my colleagues and friends there too - Veselina, Nadia, Marina. Bulgarians are very hospitable and generous. We came home with more fruit and veggies from gardens and Ryan gave everyone a momento from San Francisco. Then at noon there was a bus and a wait and another bus to the second village I visit every week on Thursdays. Another neat na-gosti with Penka and Angel who are on "vacation" and remodeling their bedroom. Then we walked to Camping Veliko Turnovo which is owned by Nick and Nicki - British ex-pats. They have one of the best camp-ground views and a refreshing swimming pool which was completed last year. They hold a number of events every month and generously and creatively support their Bulgarian community. By the time we returned to the library and cultural center, we had a chance to visit with Yordanka. Ryan has met everyone I work with and so many of my Bulgarian friends. They all loved meeting him and he enjoyed it too. He has about 7 Bulgarian words down - his efforts were appreciated!
Wednesday once again we took the 8:00am bus this time going to Veliko Turnovo. We spent 3 hours exploring Tsarevets. "Tsarevets (Bulgarian: Царевец) is a medieval stronghold located on a hill with the same name in Veliko Tarnovo in northern Bulgaria. It served as the Second Bulgarian Empire's primary fortress and strongest bulwark from 1185 to 1393, housing the royal and the patriarchal palaces, and is a popular tourist attraction." (from Wikipedia)
We had a great time - it's a pretty cool fortress to hike around. After we found lunch at a restaurant overlooking the Yantra river and found a bus to take us home where we had a simple dinner (yup - cukes and tomatoes and sirene - love it!).
Thursday - an early morning walk up the hill above the village to see sunflowers and panoramic views. Then back home to pack and go to one more na gosti with Katya and Hristina. They prepared traditional food - mekitsi (a donut-like fried bread and shopska salad.) They love to laugh and we all had a good visit. Then we took the bus to Veliko Turnovo again so we could get a direct bus to Sofia. We had a very short visit with one more Bulgarian woman, Tanya, who speaks excellent English (and teaches it at University as well). It was a quick but lovely visit.
We stayed at a hotel close to the airport in Sofia but took the tram to the center for our last Bulgarian dinner together. What a full and fun week I had with Ryan. I'm so proud of him - he is such a genuine, intelligent, creative and kind man. I will treasure him and our Bulgarian visit forever. And a big thank you to all the Bulgarians who were so kind to us and continue to be to me. You are loved.
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