Tuesday, November 8, 2011

A Weekend at Nikiforova House (Никифорова Къща)


This weekend I went on an “Excursion” with 8 members of the Woman’s Club in my village (and one very helpful husband). We traveled by car about 1½ an hours from my village Saturday morning.  The rural roads tend to be rough with potholes and uneven pavement in many locations.  We made a few unplanned stops due to two ladies who got carsick - not very much fun for them.  However, I was pleasantly surprised that there was much laughter by all, including the ladies not enjoying the car ride.  When I’m feeling nauseous I don’t feel like laughing.  The roads are also scenic and curvy.  And Bulgarian drivers do like to drive fast, Dancho slowed down once the ladies started feeling woozy and he responded right away when they asked for emergency stops. 

If I were at “home” in Arizona right now, it’s most likely that I would be the one in the driver’s seat.  I haven’t driven at all since arriving here over 7 months ago.  I love driving and usually when I move somewhere new, or visit somewhere new, I can’t wait to go exploring.  That usually includes a car getting me from point A to B to C…. I look for cool places to go walking and hiking; I look for grocery stores and/or farmer’s markets that carry what I like; I try new restaurants and I just drive around to get to know the new area.  Obviously that’s not happening here now.  The odd thing is, is that I don’t really miss it.  So many aspects of my experience here are new that I’ve been pretty engaged just being wherever I am.  I’ve had my share of bus journeys and once in a while a train or someone driving me.  Once in a while I imagine where I might go if I was able to drive, but generally I haven’t missed it.  This is surprising to me.

We stayed in a guest house just outside a tiny village named Miykovtsi.  I’m uploading photos.  It was lovely.  An elderly couple run it and it’s meticulously clean and comfortable.  As soon as we arrived and dropped off our bags in the bedrooms, some of the ladies got right to work in the kitchen.  Bread (Pitka) was made, meat made into meat patties for the grill.  Lots of delicious Bulgarian food – canned goods from summer gardens (peppers stuffed with pickled cabbage, pickles, hot peppers, eggplant, green beans).  

I looked for places to offer help, but everything was moving along very well without my help.  It’s like a big family gathering where everyone knows what needs to be done, only I’m the guest here and as I watch – the routines and food are not familiar to me.  I don’t know how things are done, or dished up or put away afterwards so I watch and learn. And of course, washing dishes is helpful in any language.

After a lot of eating and chatting, several of us went for a walk to the center of the village.  It’s about a mile to a mile and a half away, and a bit lower in altitude.  It was a beautiful autumn day and the walk felt good after a big feast.  We found a café for beverages.  One thing I love about the Bulgarians I’ve met is that they love to socialize.  They chat, they laugh, and they laugh some more. Even though I’m still understanding only a few generalities, and a few details (not necessarily in the same thread of conversation) I love watching the cheerful interactions.

We walked back and spoke with the owners a little while.  We were given apples right off the trees and medlar as well.  I still haven’t tried a medlar – they aren’t quite ripe enough yet.

Someone pulled out a deck of cards and they were playing gin rummy (or rummy – I‘m never sure what the difference is.)  I recognized it and jumped in at the next hand.  But as I went along I discovered there are different rules than I’m used to here.  You can’t lay down any cards in runs of suits or numbers until the score you would have is at least 44 (face cards being 10).   And they play with the jokers.  You can use a joker as a wild card and down the line if someone has the card the joker is substituting for they can change it out and then they get to use the joker (but this can only happen after they’ve laid their first cards down totaling 44 or more).

I excused myself after a light supper and went upstairs around 8:45 – very early on a Saturday evening.  I was tired and my brain wasn’t doing a great job listening to Bulgaran any more today.  I did a little reading and settled in for a snooze to the rhythm of the coversations and laughter in the dining room below me.  It was an only partially successful endeavor.  Around midnight, everyone called it a night and we all headed off to sleep.

Sunday was a new day.  I was up by 7:00 and headed out for an early walk.  It was peaceful.  Being in nature soothes my soul.  I feel connected.  Breakfast was homemade Pitka or Banitza again and very tasty – similar to layers of phyllo dough with feta cheese, although the cheese they make here in Bulgaria is called Sirene (sear-a-nay).  More chatting and sharing – Soduko, Crossword Puzzles (none of us knew what the river in Brazil is that has only 3 letters).  Another walk exploring the hills around us. And there were many apple trees rich in fruit.  Everyone enjoyed picking apples and I was the beneficiary of about 10 pounds of apples.  Time to bake!  Then another meal before packing up and heading home.

It was a delightful weekend.  Yes, I wish I could communicate more with the people around me, but for now I am mostly an observer and the 3 or 4 word sentence queen. And every day I practice making peace with being where I am with my language skills while I continue to study and practice little by little.  One day soon, I expect all the little pieces I've learned and have in my head to come together and flow freely out of my mouth!  He-he-he. Until then I am very appreciative of everyone's patience and assistance.

Enjoy the photos!

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