Summer Walks

It's been hot here in Bulgaria - but I don't think quite as hot as parts of the US. We have many days in the high 90s (35-37 C). And what's different than Arizona is that there is humidity here. I have "big" hair and my skin is plump with moisture. However, my skin is also reacting to the heat and humidity with rashes...I'm using sunscreen, hydrocortisone cream, Rescue Remedy cream and covering up with clothes (ugh!) but it's taking time for it to resolve. I never have had this problem before

(a little aside - that and my puffy ankles - still eating too much salt - I'm working on alternatives but not there yet. So I look in the mirror at the red patches and the puffy ankles and say "who's body is this and where is mine?")

During the day I work in old, block buildings which stay reasonably cool, especially on the ground floor. At home I use a fan a lot which has several functions. One is moving air which feels good against my sweating skin. Another is white noise for sleeping - drowns out the early morning roosters and dogs. And finally, my least favorite but very important.....if I turn it on "high" it keeps the flies from landing on me. Screens are not common on windows here. However I do have a lace curtain which I pull across and open window to discourage uninvited guests. And on one of my doors I have strands of plastic hanging which serve the same purpose. Apparently not highly effectively though.

Now, what's really neat, is that when it just gets too unbearably hot - past my generous levels of patience and tolerance....I have an air conditioning unit. Ha! I'm very grateful.

I love going for long walks. I've been exploring different roads in and around town. I go either early in the morning or later in the evening. Although when I go in the evening there is a lot of visiting involved. It's nice say hi to the folks sitting on their benches outside their homes. It's just a different kind of walk. Last week I walked to the train station (40 min.) just to make sure a train goes by that the schedule says goes by. It did! Yeah! I'm going to take the train to go "na gosti" with an American couple who live about an hour away. Typically I use buses for transportation, because the bus stop it 3 min. from my home and buses are more frequent than trains in my village.

I have a new walking companion. She is one of the village dogs who lives on her own and eats wherever and whenever she can. I like having a buddy to walk with and she seems to like the company as well. It's a different experience of dog friendship. Once in a while I do give her an egg or some leftovers from my meals but it's not up to me to make sure she gets fed. I'm also not responsible for how she behaves in public. She's an alpha dog here in town and makes sure the other dogs now it - (aggressive behavior). She barks at men on bikes who ride by but leaves the women alone. She also barks at the humans who yell at her. She eats disgusting things on the ground by the dumpsters.

I'm very happy to be her friend, but she's been a stray for a long time I'm not going to change her behaviors that I think are undesirable. I respect her and her life and I'm learning a lot from her about dogs who are "just" dogs (not beloved, pampered pets that I so love at home). The one thing I hope to do for her, is to get the once-a-month flea repellent to apply to her fur. As much for my sake as hers. :>) I don't want to adopt her because I don't want the responsibility - physically caring for her in my situation for the next two years and emotionally getting attached and to see how she's treated by some others in the village. Many people love their pets here but to some they are "just" animals - at the bottom of the pecking order.

I've posted some photos. Remember those photos of the fields of bright yellow sunflowers? (See the top of this page if you don't). They have changed. The flower heads are now heavy with maturing seeds and they are all bowed towards the earth. Soon there will be a whole new crop of sunflower seeds and oil. Also last evening around 8:30 the sun was an amazing ball of red light as it was setting. I'm not sure the camera caught the full drama of it, but check it out on the photos page.

Culinary Arts Festival

Tradition is proudly sustained and displayed here in Bulgaria. Sunday was the annual Bulgarian food festival in Djulyunitsa. Several villages participated by bringing lovingly prepared traditional foods. Many items were made from the bounty of personal gardens which are robust and verdant here. There was also fresh cheese made from sheep’s milk, which was smooth and rich – a little taste of heaven.

Banitza (BAH-neet-za) is a traditional breakfast food made from either filo dough or light bread dough and the Bulgarian cheese called sirene (sear-eh-nay). You will see many different types of breads in the photos. Bread is a symbol of life and welcome, like in so many parts of the world. It is an important staple here.

Women are dressed in traditional clothes with patterns of their villages. The girls are dressed in their performance attire and sang several numbers. The “babas” also sing – they are the grandmothers and their songs are a cross between songs and chants – very tonal and rhythmic. Sometimes entrancing, sometimes joyful, sometimes mournful.

I've uploaded photos - look how colorful and delicious everything looks!

Fresh garden vegetables were highlighted as well as home-made cheeses and pastries. Here is a rough translation of some of the creative food items (an example of the imperfection of Google Translate) :>) Among the appetizing dishes were fish soup, chicken in batter, casseroles with turkey, cake and pancake, pancake varzopcheta, vine leaves stuffed, homemade bread, bean salad, granny cakes, sweet pastry, patch, and other bulgurnik. One of the oldest recipes handed down from mother to daughter was bathing Good share of pie, made with home peel.

And the winners are:
For an authentic recipe award went to the village Zlatka Yorgova Dragijevo on its rolls pigskin. Most were delicious salad with eggs and onions to the ladies of the day care center and a group of "White Ruzhin" from Lyaskovets and best vision was Ivanka Tabakova share of good stew with turkey. The most original recipe was from the village Dimitrinka Ivanova host its bulgurnik. Desserts Todorka Yordanova from Pisarevo - sweet small tomatoes. Since my American Peach Cobbler was not an authentic Bulgarian recipe, it was not included in the competition - it was there for the curious and adventurous palates.

Take a look at the photos and enjoy!

Extra-Ordinary

I am just tickled pink right now (where did that expression come from?)! I sauteed onions, garlic, eggplant, green pepper and tomatoes for dinner. Not only was it pretty to look at but it tasted fresh and filled with vitality - all the items are from neighbors gardens. I've been in a rut around food so I'm thrilled to break out and find something new. The tomatoes have been delicious - big ones, small ones, in-between ones and heirlooms (one variety at least). And it's definitely tomato time - a corner in the center of town has folks there every day hopeful that someone will the their tomatoes. There are also a few melons and peppers, but lots and lots of tomatoes. And they are selling for about 40 cents a pound (however, if you adjust for the standard of living, it'll probably be in the ballpark of American prices).

And additionally, I found chili pepper sauce (mild) and soy sauce in our small grocery store today. Imagine that!

Ahhh, now on to other things.

There has been a lull in my posting to this blog. I think some of this has to do with me becoming
ordinary.

I'm settling in to my life and routine here in Bulgaria. I've been in this village for 6 weeks now and while I'm still (and always will be) the American, I'm not as new as I used to be. I've met many people both through introductions and through casual meetings while out walking.

I'm in a rhythm of living here and visiting two other villages weekly. I study the Bulgarian language almost daily and meet with my tutor twice a week. I've got my apartment set up and cleaned up so it feels like home. I have no specific "work" other than learning the language. Well not exactly - I'm starting to prepare to teach English to adults and kids a few times a week starting mid-September. The Peace Corps has supplied and wealth of information and online resources to help volunteers in such endeavors. It's a new journey for me, so I have a lot of planning to do. One group which I thought was "beginner" has been studying vocabulary and grammar once a week for two years. So they will need something more challenging once the "review" is over.

This summer I've been tutoring one child and I just began with one adult. This is giving me a taste of the process. I enjoy choosing this or that to focus on for each meeting and to find ways to interconnect the lessons. What I recently realized is that I don't have a larger vision - where will we be after 3 months - what are the goals, the orderly progression, the overview. This is what I want to focus on in August, so I feel prepared when September comes along.

My days are full with "ordinary" life. I say this affectionately because I'm loving the settling in process. While it's fun to be the new and different person in town, sometimes it's nice to just be one of the folks. During this time, I'm also able to spend time reflecting on what I think about and choose to do now. My environment is a fresh canvas upon which I can paint my life from this moment forward. I'm seeing new things, new people, new (old) ideas. At the same time I have brought "me" with me. So my attitudes, beliefs, good habits and not-such-good habits are here with me. I'm starting to consciously make choices of internal housecleaning. What do I want to keep, what do I want to change and what do I want to let go.

Physically - I've gotten out for long walks, exploring the village and roads in and out of it. I'm loving that and walking helps move through any stuck energy. I haven't found a yoga mat yet so that's still on the back burner. I'm preparing food that makes me happy (see above!) but my sweet tooth has followed me here! Emotionally I'm observing my rhythms and when I'm in a downswing, I know to rest, meditate and not judge myself harshly. When I'm on an upswing I know it's a good time to be productive and sharing my joy with folks here. And that it too shall pass, so don't get too attached - just go with the flow.

The biggest success I've had so far is just allowing life to unfold here for me while holding a vision for the best possible outcome. That means when I don't understand what's going on around me (a frequent occurrence) I assume that it's going well and I am on a "need to know basis" - if something is really important someone will make sure I know it. For example, I ask a bus driver at the bus station if his bus is going where I want to go and he says "no." I continue to wait for another bus, and the driver gets out of his bus and walks me to a different part of the bus station and tells me to wait there and that I want bus #9. Thank you guardian angels.

And sometimes when people are brusque or stand-offish, I can't take it personally. They have lives and deadlines and relationship constraints. I trust that all is well and that the discord has nothing to do with me. This is one of those blessings too - not being able to speak/understand the language very well, I don't have to get involved in anything where my nose doesn't belong!

So the gift in all this is that as my patterns emerge from circumstances around me, I get a pretty clear picture of them. Then it's time to choose to hang on or let go or morph in another direction.

O.K. this is getting lengthy. I think I'll call it a night (or a morning on the other side of the globe). We're having a pretty good downpour right now which is cooling everything off. Last week we had quite a thunderstorm - exciting thunder and lightening - I watched it from my balcony. I also got to light candles for the first time when the power went out.

Have a great day, and call me if you want to come over for some eggplant and veggies!

The Little Things

This morning I went for an early walk before the heat of the day. I passed an elderly man with very stooped shoulders. He was enjoying eating fresh mulberries off of a tree - only he was finding the newly dropped ones on the dirt street. I grabbed a branch and pulled off a handful of juicy, ripe mulberries and placed them into his hand. His big toothless smile warmed my heart.

I stepped outside of the library for a moment, a woman was behind a car getting ready to push it so the driver could jump start it. I helped push, it started, they drove off. Another smile on my face.

I shared apple cobbler I made last night with new neighbors and friends. Lots of genuine ooooohs and aaaaaahs. It's not a dish they have here and they loved it. I was happy to share with so many who have shared so much with me.

This evening my Bulgarian tutor came and we had a giggly session - she thinks the way I say some things is hilarious - it is! How about the word for zucchini "teekvineechkee." Say that with a straight face!

And now I just returned from a short evening walk with the full moon.

So many blessings in my day. Wow.

Wheat Harvest

Today while traveling on the bus, we passed a field where wheat was being harvested. Not an unusual occurrence for this time of year. What I found fascinating was that the combine was being followed by a whole crew of storks! I would guess they were looking for loose grains to gobble up. What a feast for them - there must have been 15 or so in the field.

Views and Chores

Friday night I went to the "final" football (soccer game) for local teams in this area and my village came in 2nd. This village has a really nice dirt field at the school – including night time lighting. The teams were tied at the end of the second (and last) period so they went to a tie-breaker phase where several members from each team lined up and alternately kicked the ball toward the goal – like a foul shot. When one scored they broke the tie. The goalies had their hands full and ultimately the “other” team scored, not the team from my village. Usually I go to bed around 10:00 or 10:30. Friday the game wasn’t over until after 11:00. But I enjoyed being outdoors in the cooler evening hours at this enthusiastically cheered game.

I slept in later in the morning – then went for a walk heading uphill to a field where there were cows and a husband/wife team “cowherding” them in the field. (It can’t be shepherding if they are cows, can it?) I enjoyed seeing my village from a different perspective (higher). I explored small streets - more like tracks really and trails at the foot of the hills. And wonderfully, I passed several mulberry trees rich in juicy ripe fruit which I thoroughly enjoyed eating. My left hand looked like it was tattooed with purple ink.

Feeling invigorated from my walk, I started some household chores. I washed my sheets and duvet cover for the first time and of course, by hand. I don't mind my clothes by hand so much, but I found myself wrestling with big, wet, heavy sheets more than I enjoy. Many small loads (1 sheet is 1 load), soaking time, many rinses (in different buckets) – 3 for everything, and pretty soon 4 or 5 hours have passed!

Then I moved on to the dysfunctional heater - it used to burn wood or coal or pellets - not sure what. It's no longer connected to the vent or the floor and has a doily on top as a decorative accessory. On really hot days, I thought there was the smell of old cigarette smoke oozing from the walls, but I think it was the heater - it was pretty dirty. Not being a smoker, I’m sensitive to the odor. So I hauled the heater into the shower room with me and gave it a good cleaning. Now it lives on the balcony instead of in my bedroom. Today is hot and I still smell old smoke – but it is better than before. I'm very happy with the fan I purchased a few weeks ago on days like today. It is hot but the breeze is great and I'm comfortable while I plunk away at the keyboard. It was worth every penny….uh….Bulgarian lev.

Later in the day there was a knock on the door – my neighbor asking me if I wanted to go with her. The words I understood were – we go, chickens, rabbits and house up on the hill. I thought we were going "na gosti" to someone’s house, maybe for dinner. She said we’d go in 10 minutes. I put the salad I was eating in the fridge and put on some “visiting” clothes. It turns out that it's her family’s second house (an elderly parent used to live there) and we went to pick some onions and parsley and feed the chickens, rabbits, a dog and a cat. Then she wanted to show me a cool path that goes through a small “forest.” It turns out that it was the same one I discovered in the morning. I love the synchronicity. We ended up at her second garden (she spends hours in her gardens in addition to working a job, cooking, canning and taking care of her family) and picked up some tomatoes and peppers.

I've been having variations of cucumber salads for 2 meals a day and loving it. The cucumbers and tomatoes are cooling on these hot summer days. Variations include adding chicken, lentils, walnuts, green leaf lettuce (just found it in a larger town bazaar the other day - Bulgarians don't like it much), and occasionally salami (yikes).

It was a full day and I was feeling very happy as I returned to my home to call it a night. About 8 minutes later my language tutor knocked on the door and I went to the cafe with her, her mom and the same neighbor. I rushed around looking for keys and wallet and headed out the door. When I got downstairs, my tutor looked at me and asked why I was wearing those shoes. Hmmm. Check out the photos - I had one white plastic croc-style slip on on my left foot and one black sandal on the right. I didn't feel the difference until she said something. It was a hearty laugh for both of us. We were at the cafe until 11:00 sipping beverages and chatting (or listening as the case may be). Another nice way to spend cooler evening hours – and the outdoor café tables were full.

Most of my sharings here are about the village I live in. I also visit two other villages one day a week each. While I may not have as much time there I’m happy to have the diversity. Each village has a little different personality and I think I will get a broader perspective of Bulgarian life by being a part of all three villages. More about them later.

Tuesday's Little Surprise

Tuesdays I spend the day in a neighboring village. I take a direct bus in the morning (less than 10 minutes) and I was told I have to make one transfer to get home. No problem. So for the first time I went through the complete routine today. On the way home, I got on the bus and got off at the next village. I have a 40 minute wait for the bus that goes to my village from there. So I sit at a cafe table, have something to drink, read a little.....sure enough, here comes the bus right on schedule. It was the same bus I got off of 40 minutes earlier.

Maybe next week I'll just stay on it and see where it goes. :>)

Saturday Afternoon BBQ

Today I went to a “pig roast” at Camping Veliko Turnovo. What a gorgeous spot they have – a panoramic view of hills and valleys. It’s owned by an English couple – Nick and Nicki and they have been there a number of years. They have a menu in both Bulgarian and English with food from both cultures. Today’s event was a fund-raiser for local distribution. While it was not an exceptionally hot day, the newly constructed pool was enjoyed by many.

I spoke with a number of English folks who live in this area of Bulgaria either full-time or part-time for a variety of reason. Tranquility and lower cost of living are two of the top reasons folks choose Bulgaria. Some even said Bulgaria chose them – sound familiar Sedonans? Some people I met have been very proactive in their villages with helping improve quality of life – teaching English, community clean-up and upgrading the soccer field. And doing such projects with the goal of encouraging participation and ownership of the projects by local residents.

Kindness and caring are contagious. I love hearing the stories of people who find that spark for wanting “more” in life in others and fueling the fire of desire. It’s a beautiful process but usually not an easy one. It’s what I strive to reach for. I think the biggest part is wanting it for myself – and then I can share it with others.

I’ve uploaded a few photos – warning to vegetarians – there may be one you won’t like!