Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Istanbul - Part 1


12/24-25/11

A fellow Peace Corps volunteer, Tricia, and I left Veliko Tarnovo on a bus at 8:30 p.m. Christmas Eve for an adventure to Istanbul. I loved having the whole day to prepare – pack, clean, organize.  It was a busy week prior to departure with village holiday events and activities.

We arrived in Istanbul at 5:30 a.m. Christmas morning.  It took about 2 hours to get through both borders and make a stop for the drivers to eat. Turkish kindness began right away.  A bus driver at the huge bus terminal took us to where we could catch the right bus to the part of town where we were staying.

We found our way by bus to Taksim Square and had breakfast at a pastry cafeteria.  Then we took the historical trolley to the end of Iskitlal Street and walked downhill to the Galata Tower and the apartment that would be our home for the next week.  Being in a new environment and a new culture is once again a bit intimidating – not knowing the language or the transportation systems.  I was happy to be with Tricia who has had quite a bit of experience traveling in the past 3 years.  Still – for peace of mind it’s good to know that there will be delays, wrong turns and miscommunications when looking for directions and information.  As we got closer and were standing looking at our map figuring out which street the apartment was on, a taxi driver came up and asked if he could help – in Turkish.  We said no taxi, but he just wanted to help us.  He didn’t know the street we were looking for so he shouted to a vendor and asked.  The vendor pointed us in the right direction.

Once in our apartment, we had some quiet time and then headed to Ara Café to meet a Turkish woman who hosts “out-of-towners.” We had difficulty finding the café – wandering this way and that, but finally we went to an Internet café to contact the woman.  But the young man who worked there knew the café, and showed us where it is.  Yeah!  Fulya meets people through CouchSurfing.net and has gatherings twice a week.  There also was a couple there from Singapore. 

After a leisurely conversation we headed to a different part of town.  We walked along the banks of the Boshporus River and had lunch at a different café.  It was interesting to see what everyone got – Turkish pizza, chicken with rice and potatoes.  Fulya also helped Tricia get a Turkish phone card to use during our visit.  Then in the late afternoon we boarded a Bosphorus tour boat.  It was a one hour cruise – 30 min. north and then south again.  It was only 10 Turkish lira which is about US $5.30 – it was one of the best “deals” of our trip.  As night arrived we watched the city lights come on including the bridges spanning the river and mansions, palaces, hotels and business along both sides of the river.  Not only does the Bosphorus Strait divide Istanbul into the European side and the Asian side it also connects the Marmara Sea with the Black Sea and the currents are treacherous.  Swimming is prohibited and large boats and tankers are required to use local pilots to navigate the waters.

After the cruise, we wandered past more street vendors on our way back to the buses.  Fulya told us that there are a lot of misconceptions of Turkish culture and much confusion with traditions that are more Arabic than Turkish.  For instance, the hookah (water pipe), “Turkish bath”, and fez are all not traditionally Turkish.

Monday 26 December 2011

Had a good nights sleep.  The apartment is quiet and the heaters kept us warm – too warm.  Eventually we realized we could turn them down to a more comfortable level, even though there were no settings.  We had a slow morning after yesterday’s long travel day and sightseeing day. (Why is it sightseeing we go to visit sites?)  We found an underground metro station near our apartment.  Our location reminds me of San Francisco.  We are located about halfway up a steep hill – down goes to the water and buses.  Up goes to the metro, trolley and Taksim Square.  The only place it’s really flat for any distance is along the shore of the Bosphorus. 

On foot we wandered looking for a yoga studio Tricia wanted to visit.  After looking and not finding, we decided it was time for a Starbucks.  It’s the first time I have visited a Starbucks since leaving the US in the end of March.  What fun.  It felt familiar and friendly.  They have Turkish pastries but the same coffees.  It’s amazing – in this “Turkish coffee” culture, Starbucks appears to be thriving with American style brew as well as Lattes, Cappucinos and hot chocolate. The Turkish (and Bulgarian) word for tea is “chai”.

Next we found the metro and headed to an area called Levent.  Again emerging from the metro we were confused – trying to match the street we were looking for with the map and what we could see in person.  We eventually found it.  This area is a business district but for lunch we found a café on a square of small shops and businesses.  It reminds me of Sonoma, California.  We found a window table and watched the world go by as we ate another Turkish meal – including a fresh salad bar – yeah!  Since we got a later start this morning it was late afternoon when we finished lunch.  We had thought about finding Belgrade Forest, but decided it was too late in the day for that particular adventure.  On our way back to the metro, we stopped in a high rise building with a shopping mall on the lower levels.  After going through the security check point (I beeped going through the monitor, but the beep was ignored) we stepped right into downtown LA or San Francisco – lots of glitz, high-end retailers and holiday decorations and lights.

An aside….while Turkey is a Muslim country there are Christian churches and some people (and apparently many retail businesses) who celebrate Christmas.  There are some Christmas trees and there are a lot of Santa Claus’ (called Noel Baba here) – but one thing is very different.  Santa makes his rounds on New Years Eve instead of Christmas Eve.  He’s part of the New Years celebration. 

So in this mall there was Santa and his sleigh in lights in the middle of the atrium spanning 2 floors.  This was something I did not expect in Istanbul!  And St. Nicolaus’ original home town is said to be Demre, Turkey.  As we wandered around a little we found an elevator to the roof-top 55 stories up.  This building is quite new – built in 2007.  We decided we wouldn’t get any better views than from the top of the building and up we went.  It was a very smooth elevator ride – my stomach did not end up in my mouth!  And yes, the view was spectacular – from all sides. 

Istanbul is huge – over 15 million people…which is approximately 4 times the size of LA and over twice the size of the entire San Francisco Bay Area.  I couldn’t see the end of it in any direction – except the black area which was Belgrade Forest in the distance.  This was one of those neat unplanned activities.  There was another option on the 55th floor but we passed on it – taking a virtual helicopter ride over Istanbul (complete with skydiving). 

We headed back towards Iskitlal Street and thought about going to an American movie with Turkish subtitles.  I haven’t been in a movie theater since leaving the US.  We found one with American actors and went in.  The theater was unusual – the seats at the front of the theater were on a higher slope than the seats in the middle of the theater.  So the rows in front of us went up slightly.  The seats were staggered so no one would be directly in front, but off to either side.  The screen was higher than I'm used to, and actually this configuration seemed more comfortable for my neck.  There were very few people in the theatre so it wasn’t a problem anyway.  Note to self – before going to a movie, get the Turkish name translated into English and look on imdb.com before sitting down to watch it.  If I had known the name I would not have bought a ticket.  As it turned out, yes – there are actors I like in this movie, but I only stayed for the first 20 minutes or so before walking out.  What’s the name you say?  Carnage - with Kate Winslet, Jodie Foster, John C. Reilly.

It’s nice to have a “home” to return to in the apartment we are staying in.  And it was cozy and comfy. And the book I'm reading on my Kindle is much preferred to the movie I didn't stay for!

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