July 2012

July began with Ryan's visit.  This is a little about the rest of the month.

It's been hot, humid and dry (o.k. this may not make sense, but it's true).  Only a small amount of rain for a short amount of time in this area.

I have visited with three Bulgarian women all of whom speak excellent English.  One lives in Gorna and is moving to England very soon, one lives in Veliko Turnovo and one in another village nearby.  I enjoy these conversations very much because I can ask questions about life in Bulgaria and understand the answers better in English than in Bulgarian.  I am grateful for the Bulgarian language that I know and am continuing to learn, but talking in my native language gives me deeper understanding.

I went to another village, Cherni Vit, to help with a summer camp for kids.  It's a scenic village at a higher altitude than my village and I knew this because it was cool enough at night to need a blanket.  It was fun being with the kids.  We played ball games like 4-Square and kickball - like baseball but kicking a big rubber ball instead of using a bat and baseball.  It was great fun.  We tried to explain the rules of the game - both in English and our "best" Bulgarian.  We had some success and ultimately it didn't matter too much.  I thought it was hilarious when base runners would pass one another - for example the person at 2nd base forgot to run and the person on 1st base passed them and went on to 3rd.  Another fun interpretation was when the kids kicked a home run and ran all the bases......and kept going for a second round after they reached home plate.  We also sang songs ... My Darlin' Clementine, B-I-N-G-O, Swing Low, Sweet Chariot and played some English word games.  I'm glad I was able to help out!

I returned home on Friday night because I agreed to cook Carrot Cake muffins and Brownies for my village's Fourth Annual Culinary Festival on Sunday.

The Culinary Festival celebrates traditional Bulgarian foods and recipes (and one American entry).  This year it was a smashing success.  Thirteen villages participated and lots of visitors came!  It was impressive growth in one short year.  More participants and more visitors.  Many of the women who contributed dishes were interviewed.  I've posted photos (see column on the right).  And of course, there was plenty of singing by Babas and children as well as horo dancing.

The last week of July, Tricia returned for one more visit to Bulgaria before heading to her new life in Norway for a Masters Program.  And I returned to the village where I spent my first 11 weeks in Bulgaria during our language and culture training.  It was a great visit.  I spent the first day and night in/near Vratsa with Didi and her family.  She was my initial Bulgarian language teacher.  And, of course, I enjoyed visiting with Lida and her family and sharing great food with them....more excellent tomatoes, cucumbers, and home made sheep's milk feta (called sirene here). Everyone in Bulgarian villages seem to have at least one garden, and often more than one.  It was a good measure for me of the ways I've changed during the past 17 months..

Bulgaria is beginning to feel "normal" to me.  When I first arrived, everything seemed so different from what I have known.  I'm much more comfortable with life here and have had some really wonderful visits and talks with people.  I am blessed to be part of my community here.  Things don't feel so "new" any more, but I do have new insights and clarity every day.  I can understand more of the language and speak more than before.  I understand parts of conversations - often  I can get a general idea of what is being talked about, but I still miss many of the details. My progress is slow, but it continues.

I may do one or two more weekend trips in August before English classes begin again in mid-September.  Otherwise, I will be here working in the Cultural Center.  Summer is flying by!

Reflections

In addition to having a good time with my son Ryan, and seeing parts of Bulgaria I haven't seen before, I have some new insights from his visit.  Ryan brought a freshness of perspective which I thoroughly enjoyed!  He loves how green Bulgaria is and how friendly the people he met are.  Its countryside is diverse.  The villages welcoming.

My village has become "home" to me - it's familiar and comfortable.  I am happy here and grateful to be here.  I feel I am growing relationships with Bulgarian friends - some younger, some older - sometimes in English, sometimes in Bulgarian and always with a sense of humor and patience.  I am blessed to be surrounded by good people and am thrilled to be sharing myself with them and sharing our cultures and ideas.

When I first arrived, everything was so strange to me and different than what I knew.  That was one thing I was looking for when I applied to Peace Corps.  The idea of something and the experience of something can be very different from one another.  This type of "clean slate" provides the opportunity for internal and external growth.

My language skills are good enough to engage in basic conversations and to find my way around.  I was really pleased that when Ryan and I were in Sofia, I navigated the buses and trams without any unplanned scenic detours.  My skills and confidence have grown over the past 16 months.  I could translate conversations for Ryan, but as long as he knew the topic, he did pretty well figuring out the general "gist" of the conversation.  Lots of hand gestures and facial expression help in this process.

The dichotomy between old and new was of interest to him.  And he was exceedingly impressed with the internet speed here. It was fun to see things he thought were interesting - or not.  It reminded me of many of my first impressions, not that long ago. He was expecting my villages to be more rural than they are - like no paved streets at all.  So when he saw they were paved he thought things are really good here.  He also likes the concept of having a "bath room" where there is a drain in the middle of the floor and taking a shower is not confined to a little closet-like space or bathtub with a shower curtain.  I too, think this is a great idea.  When I bought my apartment in Arizona the bathroom had wall-to-wall carpeting and I had to be careful every time I took a shower not to splash water on the carpet. (I had the carpet removed and put in a tile floor - now it's much better!).

In my visit with him I also realized I am changing.  I'm less concerned with a schedule and plan - I still think it's good to have them, but the deadlines are often more fluid.  I consciously look for the good things about people I meet and about myself.  I'm better about this than I used to be - less judgmental.  I fundamentally believe people have a reason for thinking the things they do or doing the things they do and that if I'm patient, I can understand them and myself better. And I think people tend to think and behave in ways that they think will make them feel good or better or have value– so it’s good to give everyone the benefit of the doubt initially (myself included).  (O.k. I know there are some people who don’t but I’m not addressing them here).

I also have opportunity and time to reflect on my own beliefs and habits from the past 50+ years – what I like and what I’m changing or want to change.  My time here in Bulgaria – the people, the challenges, the gifts - are deepening my experience of life.  I’m very happy to call Bulgaria home for these 2 years.

Ryan's Visit to Bulgaria

Ryan arrived in Varna late Thursday morning on June 28th.  How exciting!  He was weary after long hours of traveling and a short night in a hotel in Sofia, but willing to begin exploring Bulgaria.  It was such a joy to see him.  He will probably by the only one of my family and friends to actually visit and get an little idea of my life here.  That's pretty special.  (Of course, there is an open invitation to family and friends to visit!)


We had lunch near the hotel and then took the bus to Varna.  We were meeting about 25 other volunteers for a 2-hour ride on a pirate ship on the Black Sea. It was a nice introduction to Bulgaria for Ryan.  Highlights were being on the water and climbing up to the crows nest - I couldn't go the whole way - the last step was really high and I was feeling too short.  But I did get a nice birds eye view from the top of the net ladder!


Afterwards we only had energy for finding the bus back to the hotel and dinner - then it was time to rest! After a leisurely morning we gathered our things and headed out to the bus station where we could get a mini-van to Burgas - about 2 1/2 hours south of Varna - also on the coast.  Anyone who lives in a touristy area or travels a lot knows to beware of "deals" offered by some of the local entrepreneurs.  For example - we took a taxi from the hotel to the bus station because it was easier than taking our luggage on a public bus.  On the way the taxi driver offered to drive us to Burgas for only 100 leva.  He said it was only a little more the bus and we would get there sooner.  Yes, to getting there sooner, but the bus was only 15 leva each.


In Burgas we dropped our luggage off and began exploring.  I think I like parts of Burgas more than the parts of Varna I saw.  The beach stretches for a long way without lots of resort hotels and there is a wonderful park on the bluff overlooking the beach with lots of shade and paths to walk on.  It also has a very long pedestrian mall for walking, people watching and eating.


The next morning - Sunday - we hopped on another bus to a smaller touristy village called SoZOpol - a village with a Greek fishing heritage.  Lots of walking, photos and exploring.  Bulgaria (and Europe) is so visually interesting - the history, architectural blends of old and new, and people with blended heritages.  We visited a museum and soaked in all the interesting views.  Then the 30-min. ride back to Burgas.  We walked all the way to the end of the pedestrian mall before making the mistake of eating a "dooner" for dinner.  It's like a Gyros - meat sliced off a turning vertical skewer and wrapped in a pita-style bread with french fries and sauces.  I picked out the french fries - there was enough grease without them.  It was a long, hot day; lots of walking; lots of eating; and this was a little heavy as a final meal for the day.  Ryan did fine - but I was throwing up in the wee morning hours (maybe some raw meat?).  I was a wreck the next day which was our travel day back to my village.


It always makes me appreciate how rarely I feel this bad and am grateful for being healthy.  The day started at 6:00 - I bought some yogurt to calm my stomach and we headed to the train to begin our 10 hours of traveling.  It all went well (except for the yogurt - throwing up again in the grass at the train station).  We hopped on and off 3 trains - catching a little sleep during the rides (with heads bobbing of course).  I was VERY happy to arrive home and sleep in my own bed.


Monday was a rest day and we had a leisurely walk along the river.  It was also time to introduce Ryan to my friends and colleagues in the village.  We were given lots of tomatoes and cucumbers for our salads - so many gifts from gardens. Love 'em - they are soooo tasty.  It was good to have a quieter day.  We went for a second walk in the evening and were invited na gosti (visitng) with Snezha and Peter.  It was a really nice visit and I couldn't believe it was 11:00pm when we left!


Tuesday morning we took the 8:00 bus to the village where I go every Tuesday.  Ryan met my colleagues and friends there too - Veselina, Nadia, Marina.  Bulgarians are very hospitable and generous.  We came home with more fruit and veggies from gardens and Ryan gave everyone a momento from San Francisco.  Then at noon there was a bus and a wait and another bus to the second village I visit every week on Thursdays.  Another neat na-gosti with Penka and Angel who are on "vacation" and remodeling their bedroom.  Then we walked to Camping Veliko Turnovo which is owned by Nick and Nicki - British ex-pats.  They have one of the best camp-ground views and a refreshing swimming pool which was completed last year.  They hold a number of events every month and generously and creatively support their Bulgarian community.  By the time we returned to the library and cultural center, we had a chance to visit with Yordanka.  Ryan has met everyone I work with and so many of my Bulgarian friends.  They all loved meeting him and he enjoyed it too.  He has about 7 Bulgarian words down - his efforts were appreciated!  


Wednesday once again we took the 8:00am bus this time going to Veliko Turnovo.  We spent 3 hours exploring Tsarevets.  "Tsarevets (Bulgarian: Царевец) is a medieval stronghold located on a hill with the same name in Veliko Tarnovo in northern Bulgaria. It served as the Second Bulgarian Empire's primary fortress and strongest bulwark from 1185 to 1393, housing the royal and the patriarchal palaces, and is a popular tourist attraction." (from Wikipedia) 


We had a great time - it's a pretty cool fortress to hike around.  After we found lunch at a restaurant overlooking the Yantra river and found a bus to take us home where we had a simple dinner (yup - cukes and tomatoes and sirene - love it!).


Thursday - an early morning walk up the hill above the village to see sunflowers and panoramic views.  Then back home to pack and go to one more na gosti with Katya and Hristina.  They prepared traditional food - mekitsi (a donut-like fried bread and shopska salad.)  They love to laugh and we all had a good visit.  Then we took the bus to Veliko Turnovo again so we could get a direct bus to Sofia.  We had a very short visit with one more Bulgarian woman, Tanya, who speaks excellent English (and teaches it at University as well).  It was a quick but lovely visit.  


We stayed at a hotel close to the airport in Sofia but took the tram to the center for our last Bulgarian dinner together.  What a full and fun week I had with Ryan.  I'm so proud of him - he is such a genuine, intelligent,  creative and kind man.  I will treasure him and our Bulgarian visit forever.  And a big thank you to all the Bulgarians who were so kind to us and continue to be to me. You are loved.

The Black Sea Coast of Bulgaria

We had a Peace Corps Mid-Service conference near Varna, Bulgaria.  It's my first visit to the coast here and I love water.  I've been swimming in the Atlantic Ocean, the Pacific Ocean, the Gulf of Mexico, the Caribbean, Lake Michigan and numerous smaller lakes and rivers but this may be the first "sea" I've been too.  As the train got closer and closer I could smell the sea in the air - how invigorating!  

Our conference (yes, Mid-Service means we are about 1/2 way through our two year stay here in Bulgaria - actually a little more than 1/2) provided a time to visit with other PC volunteers from all around Bulgaria, to share ideas and brainstorm challenges. The group of volunteers here are enthusiastic, creative and a really positive group of people.  And the Peace Corps staff is amazing - always helpful and supportive.  They are a group of a few Americans and many Bulgarians who have guided volunteers through the ups and downs of volunteerism specific to Bulgaria over the past 21 years.  It's a privilege to work with such a dedicated and authentic group of individuals.

We stayed at a hotel a little north of Varna in the area called Saints Constantin and Eleana.  There are lots of resorts and associated businesses - restaurants, lots of souvenir stands, tour services, etc.  There was plenty of free time to stroll along the beach and explore the area.  We had one morning free and I decided to go to the Dephinarium - the dolphin show.  It's been a long time since I've seen dolphins and I didn't see them in the Sea.  It also sounds from the website that the owner is very committed to the physical and emotional well-being of these lovely animals.  

On the final day, after breakfast I hopped on a bus to the Varna airport to greet Ryan - my son.  How exciting!  More soon -- but for now, check out the photos I've added (click on Photos June-July in the right hand column).

Dear Friends and Family

Just a quick note....I'm thinking of you, wondering how your first day of summer is.  It definitely feels like summer -  90 degree temps here (although humidity was over 80%).  Fruits and veggies are ahead of last years schedule - mulberries and cherries have come and gone, I loved picking mulberries for breakfast every time I found a tree - they come in 3 colors - black, white and pink (the sweetest).  Now we're into apricots and plums. We also have lots of cucumbers, onions, garlic and zucchini.  It won't be much longer before the tomatoes begin to ripen.  :>)

 

Here's a little treat from one of my morning walks this week...

 

 

Wish you were here, to share the experience - the sounds, smells, cleaning little round clumps off of one's shoes, etc.... It's the simple things in life that give us great pleasure, right?

I hope the first day of summer/winter is a good one for you!

Festival of Roses

June 3rd, I traveled to Kazanluk with the Women's Club for the annual Rose Festival. I have added some photos in Spring 2012 of more beauty in Bulgaria.  Everything is richly green from a month of frequent and sometimes excessive rain.  Sunday was like a summer day - sunny and hot.  We left the village at 7:00am and returned 12 hours later.  I was tired and had a headache all day, but I couldn't complain because a couple of the women I was traveling with had worked long hours the day before at the company that freezes fresh fruit as it ripens.  Then they go home and do the home chores - like cooking, laundry and cooking.  They have been having very short nights for sleeping because it's the "high" season for strawberries. So they were on this excursion with about 3-5 hours of sleep, then they had to go to work after we returned to the village. Wow!

Some of my highlights from this day-long excursion:

• seeing some beautiful country traveling through the Balkan Mountains to the Valley of the Roses
• Traveling wtih Bulgarians who know so much history and geography and who have a sense of humor
• Seeing beautiful roses
• Visiting with other Peace Corps volunteers for a little while
• Picking up some yogurt made from Buffalo milk - really.

Check out the photos for more details.

Something Borrowed.......

Follow this link to a blog talking about what it's like to be an ex-pat in another country...she says it well and I feel both sides.  It's exciting to have the adventure of traveling somewhere new and different with an intention to share what I know.  At the same time all that I have known and is familiar is far away from here, now.

What Happens When You Live Abroad